Thank you for coming to my Featherweight Quilting Skill Series! There are thousands of us who love our little 221s but need or want a little more "know-how" on using them to their fullest potential. I hope my posts and videos will help you get more know-how and confidence in using your beautiful Featherweight. Enjoy the classes!
Class #3 - Quilter Foot, Part 2
Class supply list:
Your fully threaded sewing machine with the pressure screw set for lightweight fabrics and a stitch length of 8-12, the Quilter Foot, a heavy pin, several practice pieces of fabric or a small piecing project, batting and backing fabric that are a little larger than the practice piece of fabric. I'd stick with a sandwich with an edge no larger than 12".
Let's get sewing!
Because of the short length of this foot, it can be used quite effectively to sew curved lines. I'm going to continue to work on the same fabric sandwich that I was using in class #2.
Set your needle into the fabric, stitch forward and backward a couple stitches to lock the end in place.
Place your hands on either side of the stitching area.
Begin to slowly sew across the fabric. You will find the fabric is easily turned to the left and to the right to form smooth, curved sewing lines.
I thought I'd get a little adventurous and try a flower and some echoing.
You have to continually turn the fabric to make rounded shapes. If you are able to do free motion quilting, this will be a bit tedious. Remember that the feed dogs come in contact with the fabric; do not try to push the sandwich backwards or sideways. It won't work. Believe me, I tried! FMQ will be covered in another class.
Circles got me thinking.
Here are some interesting circular shapes made a couple ways I tried out.
The strand of pearls is done by making Wavy shapes across in one direction-
And then the fabric is turned around and it's repeated going back, each wave closes up the pearl.
I made more of an oval shape than a circle, but it is pleasingly organic looking! Larger pearls would be smoother than the small ones in my example. And lots of practice would make them come out better as well!
I'm sure you noticed the bigger circles in the sample. Here's how I made them.
I got out a heavy pin with a large head on the end. Use a sturdy one that doesn't bend easily.
Determine how big you want your circle to be and where it will get sewn onto the fabric.
I thought one would look good in the corner, right around here...
Set the pin through the fabric where the center of the circle would be, pointy side coming up through to the top.
Set the head of the pin on one of the screw holes on the machine. My pin doesn't fall down into the screw hole but it sets into it enough so it holds in place.
Place the fabric under the needle and hold the pin firmly in place. Don't push down on the fabric; it should move around the needle freely.
Slowly sew, allowing the fabric to sew the curve. Use your other hand to keep the layers together and evenly guide the fabric around the needle.
Want one on the smaller size? This time, we'll place the pin next to the needle plate, like this.
Choose a point on the fabric, hold the fabric back and set the pin, taking care to not scratch the top of the bed.
Hold the pin firmly to keep it in place.
Hold the pin firmly to keep it in place.
Use your right hand to guide the fabric while you slowly sew the circle.
Ta-dah! It's pleasingly round!
Or combine the circles with some curved lines for an interesting design combination!
Don't forget to tighten up the foot tension screw before you sew normal straight stitched seams! Ask me why I remember this step?
Homework: Take your fabric sandwich pieces and practice curvy lines and rounded shapes.
I hope you have been encouraged to use your amazing sewing machine and its accessories. Please share your pics on our Facebook group page, Featherweight Skill Series, so we can see your creations!
If you like the series, share the link with your friends, pin it to Pinterest, join my Facebook group... Most importantly, "Let's get sewing!"
See you next time!