Friday, December 18, 2015

Featherweight Skill Series - Binder

Thank you for coming to my Featherweight Skill Series! There are thousands of us who love our little 221s but need or want a little more "know-how" on using them to their fullest potential. I hope my posts and videos will help you get more know-how and confidence in using your beautiful Featherweight. Enjoy the classes!

Class #13 - Multi Slotted Binder



Class supply list:
Your fully threaded sewing machine with the Binder, several practice pieces of fabric: 5" x 10", bias binding from store or homemade. Trim curves on the edges of the strips: concave, convex, and scallops.

Let's get sewing!

The binder is described as an easy tool to use for finishing fabric edges. The small slots in the center of the cone are for purchased binding. The opening on the end (by my thumb) is for using bias cut fabric strips 15/16" in width.

Before installing the foot onto the machine, draw the binding all the way through the unit. In this sample, I used homemade silk binding that I had leftover from a dress I recently made.
The cone will turn the raw edges of the binding under as it sews. Set the binding inbetween the two pins and off to the right. This will help hold the fabric and free up your right hand.

Place the edge of the fabric into the side channel where it sets into the binding.

As the machine sews, the binding will be turned and stitched around the fabric, finishing it nicely.
Nice! 

I had very good results from using store bought binding. Here's the package I used to demonstrate these samples. I would encourage using store binding while you are first learning on this attachment.. After practice, try using homemade binding.

I unfolded it once and fed it through the end slot (the one by my thumb) because it didn't fit in any of the other slots. I set the tape inbetween the pins to hold it.

Sew slowly and watch where the needle is sewing to make sure the binding and the fabric are both being sewn.

If the binding or fabric is not catching well, raise the foot, adjust the unit at the slider by the needle. Have the needle over as far as it can go and still stitch on the bias tape.

Take the concave cut strip (it dips down in the middle) and feed it into the channel. Gently straighten the fabric so it sets into the channel all the way and touches the binding.
If you've done any curve sewing, this will come naturally to you.

After it's sewn, the fabric will curve back into shape.
It looks great!

Stitching a convex shape is easier. Continue to push the edge of the curve into the channel so the fabric touches the binding.


To make a turn in a point of a scallop, sew to the point, raise the foot, turn the fabric so the next scallop edge is lined up with the channel, lower the foot and continue to sew.

The center point will need to be folded over into a miter, but once that is pressed, it flattens out nicely.
Imagine this on the border of a quilt!

Have fun drawing shapes and designs by placing the fabric under the foot while sewing. Turn the fabric in the desired direction to stitch the binding on the top of the fabric.


Homework: Take your fabric strips and sew on the straight edge, the concave edge, the convex edge, the scalloped edge, and the top of the fabric.

This is the last class on the basics and the standard attachments. How are you doing with your practice pieces? Keep at it; it gets easier every time you sew!

I hope you have been encouraged to use your amazing sewing machine accessories.  Please share your pics on our Facebook group page, Featherweight Skill Series, so we can see your creations! 

If you like the series, share the link with your friends, pin it to Pinterest, join my Facebook group... Most importantly, "Let's get sewing!"

See you next time!

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